Welcome to the ride.
Founding Riders register once with their invite code. After that, it's just your email and password.
Founding Riders register once with their invite code. After that, it's just your email and password.
Plan it in plain English. Ride it on your Garmin or CarPlay.
Write it like you'd tell a riding buddy: where you start, where you end, roads you want, places to stop.
Click below, paste the prompt into Claude, then paste Claude's answer into "Add stops by hand" in step 2.
Your stops show here and on the map, in riding order. Drag a pin to move it, use ↑ ↓ to reorder, ✕ to remove, or tap the map to add a point.
One stop per line. A place name ("French Camp, MS") or Name | latitude, longitude.
Shaping points are extra points along the road. They stop your Garmin from "shortcutting" you onto a faster highway.
Make sure it's the ride you want before you send it anywhere.
Build the route first (step 3).
Pick when you'll leave. The page estimates when you'll reach each stop and shows the forecast for that hour. Forecasts reach about 7 days ahead.
Build the route first (step 3).
Forecasts from the National Weather Service (weather.gov). US only.
Pick 4A or 4B, whichever device you ride with.
Plug in the Garmin, open its GPX folder, drag the file in, eject. The file holds the route and a track of the exact roads, so the Garmin can follow your line instead of picking its own.
Or skip 4A and use this instead.
No Garmin? Open the route in Google Maps on your phone. Google only accepts a few stops per link, so long rides are split into legs: start the next leg when you finish one.
Build the route first (step 3).
A printable summary of the ride: route map, stops, arrival times, forecast, roads, turn-by-turn directions and QR codes for each Google Maps leg. Get the forecast first if you want weather on it.
The PDF saves to your Downloads folder.
Tap any question to open it.
The page is being shown inside a preview window (like the Claude app) that blocks the map. Open the file in a real browser:
Also check you're connected to the internet: the map, place search and routing all load online.
Use the labeled buttons along the bottom of the map: Left, Up, Down, Right, Zoom in, Zoom out, and Whole route. You can also drag the map with your mouse or trackpad, and pinch to zoom.
Safari is probably showing an older copy. Close the tab (Command + W) and double-click the file in Downloads again. Still missing? Hold Shift and click Safari's reload button.
Read the message under the button:
Read the message right under the stops box. It tells you what happened:
Click ✕ next to any stop you don't want, or click Clear all and paste your list once.
Map clicks show up in the list as "Via point". The number on the pin matches the number in the list. Click ✕ on that row, then Build route again.
Drag the pin to the right place on the map, then click Build route again. Use ↑ and ↓ in the list to change the order of stops.
AI can get coordinates wrong. Always look at the pins before building. Drag a wrong pin to the right spot, or delete it and type the place name instead.
The router picks the fastest road between stops. To force your road:
This test version uses free, shared routing servers that are sometimes busy. Wait a minute and click Build route again. "No route found" can also mean a pin is off any road (in a lake or field): drag it onto a road.
Shaping points: extra points along your road, saved in the GPX so your Garmin can't take a shortcut. Change how often they appear in step 3. "5 miles" locks the route tightest.
It's car speed with no stops. Plan extra time for fuel, photos, food and the Trace's lower speed limit.
Look at the Check your route box after you build. It shows which roads the ride uses and how many miles on each, and warns you in red if any part uses an interstate. Open Turn-by-turn directions and click any line to jump to that spot on the map.
After you build the route, pick when you'll leave and how long you'll stay at each stop, then click Get the forecast. The page estimates when you'll reach each stop and shows the National Weather Service forecast for that hour: temperature, sky, chance of rain and wind.
Tags flag what matters on a bike: RAIN LIKELY (40% or more), WINDY (20 mph or more), COLD (40° or below) and HOT (95° or above).
Hourly forecasts only reach about 7 days ahead. Check again a few days before the ride, and once more the night before.
Official weather warnings (like a severe thunderstorm or flood warning) that are active right now near your stops. They're most useful on ride day itself.
No. They assume you ride at the speed limit, plus the stop time you picked. Real rides usually run longer, so check the hours around each arrival too.
The National Weather Service only covers the United States. For a spot right on the coast or a border, drag the pin slightly inland and build again.
If a print window opens instead, the PDF tool couldn't load: click PDF at the bottom left and choose Save as PDF.
Click Get the forecast first and wait for the results, then download the sheet again.
Each code opens one Google Maps leg on your phone. You can scan them from the printed page or from the PDF on another screen.
Google Maps (4B): yes. It uses live traffic and closure reports and reroutes you. It still tries to reach every point in your leg in order, so after a detour it heads to the next point by the fastest road. If you skip a point and it keeps telling you to turn around, open the stop list in Google Maps and remove that point.
Garmin route (4A): if you leave the planned road, it recalculates to get you back on track. It only knows about closures ahead of time if it gets live traffic, usually by pairing it with the Garmin phone app.
Garmin track (4A): it never reroutes. It shows your line and you find your own way back to it.
Check closures the morning of the ride. For the Natchez Trace Parkway, the National Park Service lists closures and detours on the park's alerts page: nps.gov/natr. For other roads, check your state's 511 traveler site or app (Mississippi's is MDOTtraffic).
The file has both. The track is the exact line you saw on the map, so it never changes. The route uses your stops plus shaping points, so the Garmin can still give turn-by-turn directions. If the Garmin route ever wanders, ride the track (or convert the track to a trip in Trip Planner).
Build the route first (step 3). Any change to your stops clears the old route, so build again after editing.
Or click Copy link and text it to yourself.
Google Maps links only hold a few stops. Long rides get split; each leg ends where the next begins. When you finish a leg, open the next one.
Every point counts as a stop in Google Maps, so it announces each one. Choose 30 miles in step 4B for fewer alerts. If Google then drifts off your road, go back to 20 or 10.
Some phone browsers only accept 3 stops per link. In step 4B, set Points per leg to Up to 3. You'll get more, shorter legs. Having the Google Maps app installed also helps.
Google follows the points from your orange line. If the orange line itself used the interstate, Google will too. Fix the orange line first: keep Avoid interstates checked in step 3, or click on your road to add via points. Build again, then scan the new QR code.
That's normal. Google names each point after the closest address, like a shop or county road. Your route still goes through the right spots. Check the map, not the names.
Google chooses its own fastest road between points. Add a via point on your road in that stretch (click the map), build again, and reopen the leg. A smaller spacing in step 4B also helps.
Take a screenshot showing the map and the message under the stops box, and send it to Claude.